Brief History of Mustard
The history of mustard goes back to 1850 B.C. and covers the world’s cuisines. In ancient times, the Romans, in particular, made complex mustard with ground mustard, pepper, caraway, lovage, grilled coriander seeds, dill, celery, thyme, oregano, onion, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, and oil. They used this sauce as a glaze on spit-roasted wild boar. As the Roman empire expanded westward, they settled in Dijon, France, cultivating mustard seeds in that region. In 1877, Maurice Grey (mustard maker who combined the ground seeds with white wine) partnered with Auguste Poupon (financier).
Traditional New York Deli Mustard
In the 1880s, the first deli or delicatessen, operated by German/Jewish immigrants, appeared in New York. Deli’s started as a convenience store combined with a quick-service butcher shop. Sadly, delicatessens have been fading away, from a high in the 1930s of about 1500 shops down to 15 still open today. Traditional New York Deli-Style Mustard is coarsely ground and yellow or brownish. This recipe makes yellowish conventional New York-style deli mustard that I think is spicy. Add three tbsp of finely grated horseradish to make extra spicy traditional New York deli mustard.
Sausages to Pair With
Try traditional New York Deli Mustard with classic English Bangers, traditional Boudin Blanc, traditional German Bratwurst, or traditional Texas Hot Guts.
This recipe gives you a bonus. It makes Brown mustard and New York deli-style mustard at the same time!
Measure out 100g (3 1/2 oz of black mustard seeds)
Do the same with the yellow mustard seeds, 100g (3 1/2 oz of yellow mustard seeds)
Likewise, measure out the kosher salt and vinegar (not shown).
Add the combined mustard seeds, kosher salt, water, and vinegar(s) to a container with a tight-fitting lid. Seal it and let it sit on the counter in an excellent dark spot for seven days.
Process the seeds in pulses until the desired consistency. (Or conversely, process only half of the seeds and mix with the unprocessed mustard seeds for French Pommery-style mustard.)
I prefer a rustic smoothness with a few unpoped mustard seeds.
If you prefer brown mustard, this image is a beautiful Brown mustard; if you prefer Brown mustard, [stop here]; if you would like the bright New York deli-style yellow version, proceed through the following steps.
Use a whisk to mix the vinegar and mustard powder. Cook over medium heat till a paste is formed.
Stirring constantly, cook the mustard powder for 1-2 minutes until very thick.
Measure the remaining ingredients (additional vinegar, salt, ground turmeric, and water) and add them to the blender and the cooked mustard paste.
Process the mustard to the desired consistency. Place in a container with a tight-fitting lid and store in the refrigerator until needed.
The uses for these mustards are vast. Use them as a condiment or as an ingredient in other sauces.
Pastrami on Russian Rye with New York-style deli mustard!
Delicious mustard! You may never purchase mustard again.
Traditional New York Deli Mustard
Equipment
- stand blender, small food processor, or immersion blender
- measuring spoons and cups
- small saucepot for cooking ground mustard
- whisk
- rubber spatula
- storage container with a tight-fitting lid
Ingredients
Grainy Brown, French Style Pommery Mustard (Marinate for seven days)
- 3½ oz black mustard seeds (Black or brown mustard seeds are spicier than yellow mustard seeds.)
- 3½ oz yellow mustard seeds
- 1 cup distilled vinegar
- 1 cup water
- ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
- 2 tsp salt, kosher, or sea
Cooked Mustard Paste
- 8 tbsp mustard powder (like Colman's)
- ⅓ cup water
- ⅓ cup vinegar, white distilled, or apple cider
New York Deli Mustard
- 3 cups mustard, grainy Brown, French-style Pommery, or store-bought (see above) (Entire recipe of Grainy Brown Mustard recipe from above)
- ¾ cup mustard paste, cooked (see above)
- ¾ cup vinegar, distilled white, or apple cider
- ¾ cup water
- 1½ tsp salt, kosher, or sea salt
- 1 tsp turmeric, ground
- ¼ cup horseradish, grated (jarred or fresh)
- ⅛ tsp sugar(optional)
Instructions
Grainy Brown, French Style Pommery Mustard
- Measure out and combine all ingredients and place in a container with a tight-fitting lid.
- Marinate in a cool, dark place for seven days. (In rare occurrences, the mustard seeds may absorb all of the liquid. It depends on your mustard seed source. In which case, add ½ cup equal parts additional vinegar and water.)
- After seven days, place into a blender and process for a few seconds. If you like grainy mustard, stop and use it as is. If you prefer smooth mustard, continue processing until smooth. If the mustard becomes too thick, thin it out with extra water or vinegar.
Below is the recipe to take the Brown/Pommery style mustard to New York Deli-style mustard.
Cooked Mustard Paste
- Add all ingredients to a saucepot over medium-high heat and whisk until dissolved. Bring the mustard to a low boil and reduce the heat to super low heat, whisking constantly. Cook the mustard for 2 minutes, remove it from the heat, and reserve.
Preparing the New York-style Deli Mustard
- Using a small food processor, blender, or immersion blender, combine the New York-style Deli Mustard ingredients and process until smooth but leave a little grainy.
- Check for saltiness and store in a container with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerate until needed.
Storing
- Store in the refrigerator in a container with a tight-fitting lid. The mustard will keep for several months.